Diamond Guide, Information and Buying Tips for Loose Diamonds and Engagement Rings
Diamond Buyer's Guide
Engagement Rings
Diamond Stud Earrings
Wedding Bands
Diamond Pendants
Tension Set Rings
Basic Diamond Four C's
Carat Weight
Diamond Clarity
Diamond Color
Diamond Cut
In-Depth Diamond Info
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Conflict Diamonds
Canadian Diamonds
Fancy Colored Diamonds
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Fancy Cut Ideal Specs
Asscher Cut Diamonds
Diamond Fluorescence
Before you Buy
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Tension Set Rings
What is a tension set ring? A tension set ring is one where the entire ring acts as one large spring holding the diamond in place. There is no metal bridging the gap where the diamond is being held. Because the diamond appears to float in air and due to the lack of metal underneath the diamond, you get a beautiful unobstructed view of the stone. Light enters the diamond from all angles and sparkles more in a tension ring than a traditional diamond ring would. It’s important to have a reputable jeweler and designer create your tension ring.

tension set ring

Of course, tension rings need to be designed very tough. A true tension ring will be very beefy and undergo special alloying, hardening and treatment processes for super strength. The rings are made with heavy gauge metal because the more metal the stronger it is. A flimsy 2 gram ring just won't cut it. This is why tension rings in general are more expensive than traditional rings, as tension rings use two to three times the metal. The alloys used are also specially made for tension rings. Whether it's a 14K (58.5% pure) alloy or a 950 (95.0% pure) alloy of precious metals, the remaining part of the alloy is made up of very strong metals. When the ring is being made, the metal is cold-worked and hardened, and then once the ring is set it is heat-treated for additional hardness.

Quick Tips:

1) First of all, never buy a tension ring that is not made from a very well known and reputable designer that specializes in these types of rings. If your local jeweler says they can “make you” one, then pass! Tension rings are not something any jeweler can just make; they require specialized design work, calculations, casting, and strengthening processes such as heat treatment to maintain their firm grip on the diamond.

We only recommend tension rings from the following designers:
a) Gelin Abaci
b) Steven Kretchmer
c) Danhov
d) Niessing


2) Sometimes less is more. 14K white gold is often good enough for tension rings. Tension set rings are more heavy and bulky enough as is, since they’re built tough to hold the diamond securely in place. There’s no reason to add unnecessary weight such as 18K white gold, and because 18K will most likely yellow quicker and need more polishing, 14K white gold is probably best. Platinum is heavier of course but it’s a luxury we give the green light to, for those who must have the very best.

3) Don’t let anyone tell you tension rings are not secure. When designed and built correctly by a reputable designer, they are often more secured than the best prong-set ring. However, if you are really concerned you will lose your diamond either in a tension set ring, or in a prong set ring, we recommend you get it insured for extra peace of mind.

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4.7 / 5 James Allen
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