Princess Cut Q's

[Bones 338]

Hello,
I had 2 questions regards princess cut earrings. The first is about the cut; I believe that a good round shape will have 58 cuts. Does this also apply to a princess cut? If not, what is the proper amount of cuts?
The second question is in regards to the depth percentage. I am aware that the proper depth for a princess cut RING is 58-80%. Does this apply to earrings also? If not, what is a good depth to maximize brilliance for earrings?
I appreciate your assistance,

J.

[John]

Hi J,

Basically the same cut applies for princess whether it's in a ring or earrings or whatever. In a ring of course you're going to be looking at it very closely and for some people symmetry is very important (all the facets having good proportions in relation to eachother, etc) but for earrings symmetry becomes less important because you are looking from a distance and diamonds with "good" symmetry are good enough for earrings I would say because if the proportions and polish and everything else checks out with them, they'll still sparkle very nicely. With princess stones another thing to look for is the length to width ratio. Some princesses are say 5.78x6.45mm so that one would be rectangular, even though one like 6.15x6.19mm will look much more square and have roughly the same carat weight if you know what I mean.

As for proportions, this is a quick guide to follow I've found works well:

Table Size: 60-71%
Depth: 64-75%
Crown Height: 8.5-11%

You can get a slightly bigger table and depth and still have a well cut stone but I'd start with those numbers first and see where it gets you. Good luck.

[Mervyn L. Cohn ASA]

Regardless of anything else the Geometry of the Cross section of any faceted and polished diamond, in order for it to have the maximum brilliance (Sparkle) should or must adhere to the Tolkosky (a Scientist, mathematician, diamond expert) formula. This formula based on the physics of light refraction and the internal reflections of Diamond are what makes the diamond sparkle. Therefore any example that differs from the "IDEAL" won't sparkle like one that does. Therefore when you choose to buy a diamond and you want maximum sparkle, choose one that has an eCS = 1.000.